The direct answer is no. Log into your card account, try to add another credit card as a payment method, and it won’t be accepted. Payments have to come from a bank account.
But the question behind the question is usually reasonable: can I move this balance somewhere cheaper? That you can do, through two mechanisms with very different price tags.
Route 1 — Balance transfer (the sanctioned version)
This is the product built for exactly this purpose. You apply to a new card, tell it which balance to take over, and the new issuer pays off the old card. The debt moves.
What it costs: typically a transfer fee of a few percent of the amount moved, charged up front and added to the balance.
What it can save: many transfer offers carry a promotional rate, often 0%, for a set number of months. Against an average card rate of 20.94%, that window is worth real money if you use it to repay rather than to relax.
Where it goes wrong: the reversion rate. When the promotional period ends, the remaining balance moves to the standard rate, which is frequently no better than the card you left. People transfer, feel relief, pay the minimum for ten months, and end up in the same position minus the fee.
Two rules make it work. Diarise the end date the day you open the account. And divide the balance by the number of promotional months: that quotient, not the minimum, is your monthly payment.
Route 2 — Cash advance (the expensive one)
Withdraw cash on card A, deposit it, pay card B. It works and it’s the worst option on this page.
Cash advances usually carry a higher rate than purchases, typically have no interest-free grace period (interest starts immediately), and usually add a separate fee on top. You’d be moving a balance from a card charging around 21% onto terms that are worse in three distinct ways.
There’s a narrow case: a genuine short-term timing problem where the alternative is a missed payment, and you can repay within days. Payment history is 35% of a credit score and a default is expensive, so occasionally the least-bad option is still worth taking. As a strategy for managing debt, it isn’t one.
What neither route does
Neither reduces what you owe. Moving a balance changes its price, not its size. That’s worth saying plainly, because the psychological relief of a cleared card can feel like progress and isn’t.
The only things that reduce a balance are repayment and settlement, and settlement carries its own costs.
The effect on your credit score
A balance transfer opens a new account: a hard inquiry, a lower average account age, both small. It also adds available credit, and if you keep the old card open your overall utilisation may fall. That helps, since amounts owed is 30% of a FICO score.
Keep the old card open, unused. Closing it removes its limit from your available credit and pushes utilisation back up, which undoes much of the benefit.
A cash advance doesn’t create a new account, so no inquiry. It does raise the balance on card A immediately, including the fee.
What to do instead, usually
If the goal is a lower rate on the same debt, the honest ranking is:
- Ask your current issuer for a rate reduction. Free, twenty minutes, and it improves every remaining month without a new account. Underused.
- Balance transfer, if you can clear it within the promotional window after counting the fee.
- A personal loan, if the balance is large and you need an enforced end date — the nine-point gap between card and loan rates is often worth capturing.
- Cash advance. Only for a genuine short-term emergency, repaid within days.
None of this changes what you actually owe. Only repayment or settlement does that, and if the minimums themselves are unaffordable, start here instead of shuffling balances around.
Otherwise: ask for the rate cut first. It’s free, and it beats every workaround on this page. The card debt guide covers the rest of what’s worth checking before you commit to any of these.